Kitty's Chinese Dumplings (Jiaozi)

August 30, 2016 by Aurel Pop in Cooking with Friends, Main Dish

Cooking with friends is a monthly series in which my dearest friends are inviting me into their kitchens and teaching me their favorite recipes. These bonding experiences deepen our friendships, expand my palate, and enhance my culinary skills by sharing a timeless practice: cooking.

The Asian theme continues on gourmet cubicle. After the success of my Japanese miso ramen recipe, it’s time for another Asian staple: Chinese dumplings, also known as jiaozi.

For a very long time the idea of making dumplings never really crossed my mind, mostly because I had a preconceived idea that they must be really difficult to make. Then I talked to my friend Minghui. I knew his family cooked, because he brought amazing dishes to work potlucks in the past. I told him about Cooking with Friends and asked him if he would teach me to cook a Chinese staple dish.

He said yes, without thinking twice. When Chinese New Year rolled around, Minghiu invited me to celebrate with his friends and learn the secrets of making dumplings with his friend Kitty. He told me that they’d make traditional Chinese dishes, and that Kitty–Minghui’s good friend and neighbor—would show me the secrets to her famous dumplings. I was blown away (and a bit nervous) about making dumplings from scratch. Kitty’s mom, Lanxiang Yang, who was visiting from China, would be there as well, and according to Minghiu, she had mad dumpling-folding skills.

When I arrived at Mighui’s house, I was welcomed by his wife Jun Li, his super cute daughter Jennifer, Kitty, and Lanxiang. They were excited to share their recipe and traditions with me. Lanxiang was wearing traditional Chinese clothing, which set a celebratory tone. Even though she didn’t speak English at all, we were able to communicate with Kitty’s help and through signs.

Lanxiang started by showing me how to make the dough. The ingredients were simple—water, flour, and salt—but the process was time-consuming and rather difficult. When I tried my hand on rolling out a wrapper, it was obvious to everyone that I wasn’t meant for this; the wrappers were all wonky and pretty much useless. Of course, Kitty and Lanxiang kneaded, cut, and rolled the wrappers so fast that it looked effortless, but that was just the result of years and years of experience. As a result, in my recipe, I recommend you buying the pre-packed wrappers to make your life a lot easier.

While I was observing the whole process, Kitty told me about a few Chinese gastronomical traditions. I found that these dumplings are specific to the northern part of China and that Shanghai also has a variation of them, but they are sweeter. I also found out that eating in Chinese culture is similar to many other cultures in that it is communal. They usually set up two tables: one for adults and another for children. On special occasions like holidays, anniversaries, birthdays, etc., they make dumpling along with a lot of other dishes. The rule of thumb is to make 10 dumplings per person, which adds up pretty quickly for a party of 15-20 people.

I also learned about the importance of the number 8 in Chinese culture. When hosting a dinner or family gathering, they start the feast by serving 8 cold appetizers (cured meats, salads, noodles, etc) followed by 8 warm plates (fish, dumplings, cumin lamb, double fried pork, etc.). The meal ends with fruits. Generally, the women are responsible for cooking and the men are in charge of cleaning.

Although some men take pride in their cooking skills, Minghui was as much a novice dumpling maker as I was. We used the rule of 10 and determined that we needed to fold at least 130 dumplings. Lanxiang showed us at least four or five folding techniques, but they didn’t really stick to Lianxiang's amusement. She could pick up a wrapper that Kitty rolled out, put a spoonful of filling in the middle, and just like when a magician performs a trick, BAM! You got yourself a dumpling. Half an hour later, Lanxiang, Minghui, and I finished folding 147 dumplings (yes, I did count them all). Minghui and I contributed very little to the total number, as we were only able to successfully fold 10 to 15 in that time. The rest were all Lanxiang’s work of magic. Her hands were on autopilot, moving faster than a high-end folding machine, and she laughed all the while at Minghui’s and my inability to master dumpling folding.

After a few weeks I decided to try making them at home, and although it took me about an hour to make 30 dumplings, they were well worth it. My friend Maria (who you may remember from a previous Cooking with friends blog post) swears by them. She claims that these are the best dumplings she’s ever had, which means a lot, since she’s spend significant time in China. Try them, have fun with the folding, and don’t make a big deal out of the shape—they’ll taste fantastic regardless. Enjoy!

Kitty's Chinese Dumplings (Jiaozi)

Serves 6-8
Prep time: 45 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes

Ingredients

Dumplings

1 bunch of celery, roughly chopped (about 8-10 stalks)
1 bunch green onions, roughly chopped
1-inch ginger, crushed
1 lb. ground pork
4 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. ground white pepper
1 ½ tsp. ground Sichuan pepper
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 lb. round dumpling wrappers (about 60-80 wrappers)

Dipping sauce

¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup Zhenjiang vinegar
1 clove garlic, crushed and finely chopped
½ inch ginger, peeled and grated
1 tsp. chili oil (more for spicier sauce)

Instructions

Start with the dipping sauce. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce with the vinegar, garlic, ginger, and chili oil. Stir and set aside.
Coarsely chop the celery, green onions, and ginger, and then transfer them to a food processor. Pulse until they are finely chopped. Don’t overdo it!
Remove the celery mix, wrap it in a clean kitchen towel, and squeeze it to remove the excess liquid.
In a large bowl, combine the ground pork with the finely chopped celery mix, salt, white pepper, Sichuan pepper, and olive oil. Using your hands, stir until the filling is well mixed.
Holding a dumpling wrapper flat in your hand, place 1 ½ teaspoons of the filling in the center of the wrapper.
Wet the edges of the wrapper and fold the dumpling in half to form a half-moon shape, pressing out the air as you seal the dumpling.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the 15-20 dumplings at a time and cook until they float to the surface or until the water starts foaming. Add half cup cold water, and wait until the water returns to a boil. Add another half cup cold water and cook until the water starts boiling again.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and transfer them to a platter. Repeat until you boiled all the dumplings.
Serve the dumplings hot, with the sauce on the side.

Notes

There are several techniques to fold the dumplings. Look one up on YouTube if the instructions aren’t clear. Don’t sweat too much over making them look like at the restaurant—those guys are pros.

Chicken Khao Soi

November 22, 2015 by Aurel Pop in Main Dish, Soup

I had never had khao soi prior to moving to the United States. As a matter of fact, Roni introduced me to it. It was right when we started dating that she told me about this insanely delicious Thai soup that I would love. She went on to explain that when she was backpacking in Thailand she went to Chiang Mai in the north almost exclusively to hunt the dish down in its native region. She kept going on and on about it, but honestly I just couldn’t wrap my head around it, until one day she took me to a Thai restaurant that she knew served a decent khao soi.

When I first tasted it I wasn’t that impressed. I think she got the vegetarian one, so it may have been that, but I recall thinking that the dish wasn’t anything special, or at least it wasn’t anything special to my sophisticated Eastern European palette. I think she got a bit offended by my indifference towards her favorite Thai dish, so she made it her mission to prove how good it was. She told me that there was another Thai place that was closed for remodeling at the time, but once it reopened she would take me there so I could have what she thought to be the closest to the khao soi in Chiang Mai.

After a few months the Thai place re-opened its doors so we went to check it out. As I was going through the menu I saw that their version of Khao Soi was actually made with chicken. It instantly got my attention. Funny thing is that I still didn’t order it anyway. I have this weird habit of not ordering what Roni does, even if it’s my favorite dish on the menu. The way I think about it is that I will taste it anyway if she’s ordering it so why not trying something else as well?

Well, my principle bit me in the ass this time. As soon as they brought out her khao soi I immediately knew I made a huge mistake. It looked so appetizing: fresh Thai basil, cilantro, bean sprouts and crisp red onions on top of this bright yellow fragrant soup. As she stirred it I saw noodles and a whole braised chicken leg which I thought I would surely get because Roni generally only eats white meat. I smelled it and was mesmerized by its curry fragrance. I managed to get a taste of it which finally led me to understand why she loved it so much and what a fool I was for not trusting her taste. To add to my misery, I didn’t end up getting the chicken leg, because apparently Roni’s dark chicken meat rules don’t apply when it comes to khao soi.

I played it cool, finished my dish and said that I could make a better khao soi at home anyway. She challenged me to prove it, which lead me to come up with this recipe. I experimented with several recipes I found online, but none of them seemed good enough, so I created my own version. Most importantly, Roni—who has had many versions of the real deal in Thailand--loves my recipe. In fact I just watched her polish off the last bowl of leftovers. Gin Hai Aroy!

Chicken Khao Soi

Serves 8
Prep time: 25 minutes
Cook time: 60 minutes

Ingredients

Curry paste

4 dried guajillo chilies (or pasilla chilies)
2 medium shallots, roughly chopped
6 cloves garlic, crushed and roughly chopped
2 inches ginger, crushed and roughly chopped
2-4 Thai chilies, roughly chopped (amount depends on your desired spice level)
1/2 cup cilantro stems, roughly chopped
1 1/2 TBS ground coriander seeds
2 tsp turmeric powder
2 tsp garam masala
1 TBS red curry paste

Soup

2 1/2 lbs skin-on chicken leg quarters, bone in (about 4 whole legs or 4 thighs and 4 drumsticks)
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 TBS vegetable oil
28oz coconut milk (2x14oz cans)
3 1/2 cups low sodium chicken broth
1 tsp clam juice
1 tsp fish sauce
2 TBS soy sauce
1/2 TBS palm sugar (or brown sugar), optional
1 cup pickled mustard greens, roughly chopped
1/4 cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped
1 medium lime juiced (about 3 TBS fresh lime juice)
1 lb egg noodles
1 TBS kosher salt

Garnish

bean sprouts
Thai basil leaves
red onions, sliced
cilantro leaves
lime wedges
crispy chicken skin

Instructions

In a small sauce pan bring 2 cups of water to a boil over high heat. Place the dried chilies in the pan and using a spoon submerge them under the boiling water. Cover the pan with a lid, remove from heat and let the chilies soak.
Using paper towels pat the chicken legs dry. Make sure you don’t miss a spot otherwise you risk burning yourself with splattering hot oil.
Remove the skin from the chicken legs. For best results use a paper towel to grab the skin (that way it won’t slip out of your hand) at the bottom of the thigh and pull upwards.
Set skin and chicken aside on a large tray and sprinkle with salt and pepper on both sides.
Add oil to a large and deep stainless steel frying pan. Place chicken skin in the oil and heat the pan over medium-high heat. When the oil starts shimmering reduce the heat to medium and cook the skin for about 5 minutes. Turn on the other side and cook until it becomes brown and crispy.
Transfer the skin to a paper towel lined plate and set aside.
You should have enough fat in the pan, but if it’s running low add a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil. Raise the heat to high until the grease easily slides across the pan.
Carefully place the chicken legs in the pan and sear them for about 10 minutes on each side.
While the chicken is searing, transfer the chilies from the hot water to a food processor removing the stems in the process. Keep 1/3 cup of soaking liquid. Discard the rest.
Add the rest of the ingredients under Paste to the food processor. Puree until it reaches the consistency of a smooth paste, about 2-3 minutes. Set aside.
When the chicken developed a nice brown sear on each side, transfer to a bowl and set aside.
Add the curry paste to the hot pan and cook for 5 minutes stirring occasionally. Pour in coconut milk, chicken broth, clam juice, fish sauce, soy sauce, and sugar. Stir well to combine and bring to a boil.
Place the chicken and juices from the bowl into the boiling sauce. Reduce heat to low and let it simmer for 25 minutes.
Add pickled mustard greens, cilantro and lime juice. Give it a last stir, cover and cook for 5 more minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. It’s done!
Fill a large pot halfway with water. Add a tablespoon salt and bring water to a boil over high heat. Add pasta and cook per the instructions on the package. It usually takes about 3-5 minutes to cook egg noodles so be careful not to overcook them.
When the noodles are done, drain them and discard the water.
Time to prepare the bowls for serving. Divide the noodles and place them in large soup bowls. Using a large spoon or ladle transfer soup and chicken on top of the noodles. Serve hot.
Add the toppings of your choice. Using your hands crush the chicken skin into bite sizes and sprinkle on top of the soup.

Notes

For a vegetarian version replace chicken with tofu, vegetables or a mix of the two and the chicken stock with low sodium vegetable broth. Also, replace the clam juice and fish sauce with vegetarian options.
Palm sugar, red curry and pickled mustard greens can be purchased at most Asian stores.
I prefer using air chilled chicken, especially when pan frying it. The regular one has a high water content and will splatter hot oil when placed in a hot pan.

Spiced Tomato and Plum Jam

October 29, 2015 by Aurel Pop in Condiment

Getting back into the groove at work after a great vacation is always tough, and the day before getting back to work in my books is the most horrible day of the year. I dread the last day of vacation when I have to think about the thousands of emails that are waiting in my inbox, all the work that built up while I was gone, and all the changes that happened in that short time I was away. It almost feels like the moment when you wake up after a dream that filled you with happiness and positivity only to realize that you're not laying in the sand, on a nice beach, waiting for a cocktail in a giant exotic fruit and some nice seafood to be served, but rather you're in bed with your alarm forcing you to get up and ready to do what you've been doing for the last few years of your adult life- work.

Whoever says he or she enjoys going to work on a Monday, especially if it's right after vacation, is either crazy or the luckiest person alive. It may seem like I dislike work, but I actually don't. I've worked very hard my entire life to get where I'm at right now. Coming from a small Romanian town from a working class family, never allowed me the luxury of not working, or working without giving 100%.

Seeing new places, having the freedom of waking up whenever you please, your mom or grandma cooking your favorite dishes just like they did when you were a kid is something so special that no job in this world can offer. Hanging out with the parents you haven't seen in so long, catching up with old friends that you haven't talked to in years, sharing your best memories and experiences with loved ones are all essential in my life. They are priceless. No money in this world is able to buy those emotions, that happiness. This vacation was just like that and it fed my soul.

Fall is slowly creeping up on us. The cold nights are about to arrive when all you want to do is sit on the couch wrapped up in a fluffy blanket and watch Netflix with a delicious bowl of hearty comfort food while also sipping on a big ol' mug of mulled wine. Fall is beautiful.

In Romania, fall is the season when everyone prepares for the winter. People stock their pantry with preserves, jams, compotes and pickles. My parents were very proud to show me and Roni their freezer stacked with vegetables that my dad grew in my grandma's garden. Ziplocks full with eggplant, peppers, green beans, peas and fruits like cherries and plums are arranged in order in their freezer. The pantry is also at capacity with jars of pickled beans, cabbage, cucumbers, zacusca, peach compote, strawberry and raspberry preserves and bottles of tomato juice. Roni asked me to take a picture of their pantry but unfortunately I forgot to.

If you're a fan of seasonal vegetables you may be interested in preserving some that are easy to preserve like green beans, eggplant and tomatoes. Preserving is a lot easier than it sounds. I was fortunate to see my parents and grandparents doing it ever since I was a kid. Every year in fall the freezer would get packed. This year they harvested over 400 pounds of tomatoes, 100 pounds of peppers, 150 pounds of green beans and lot of eggplant from their garden. They had to give away more than half of the tomatoes, yet still ended up with over 60 liters of tomato juice (called bullion in Romanian), jars of pickled green tomatoes (called gogonele) and a couple of shelves of eggplant and peppers.

The idea for this tomato jam came to mind when I was trying to find a good condiment for the venison burgers I made for Roni's brother and dad. I wanted something sweet and fruity to go well with the game meat. I decided to combine the tomatoes with some plums I found on sale. The result was fantastic with a good balance between the sweetness of the tomatoes and the tartness of the plums. I also had the jam as part of a charcuterie plate served with crackers and a few smoked cheeses. It was absolutely delightful. Give it a shot!